Scenic flight over the Okavango Delta and a relaxing mokoro ride

Our last morning bushcamping at the Okavango Delta, we had an optional morning walk. The departing time was at 6am but after so many days waking up before the sun, we were all used to it. No one failed to join the group and we all went to see the sun appear behind some African trees.

While we were preparing to leave, I was telling R that something weird had pushed my tent through the night. My head was touching the side of the tent and a couple of times I felt like something was pushing back. Our guides told me that for sure it was not animal. I was tempted to believe them, but then I heard that that night we had a buffalo walking through the camp. I will let yourself decide what happened that morning. It will remain a mystery.

Sunrise walk at the Okavango Delta

We left the camp quite early. After only fifteen minutes walking, we were facing a small lagoon while the sun started to rise behind the small hills. We were there for about an hour. Closely watched by an impressive group of hippos that a couple of times attempted to come at us.

Soon after that, we went back to camp and realized that the polers that we left behind had taken down all tents. Ir was amazing as usual and had prepared for us some fried eggs, bacon and more. An amazing breakfast as usual. By 7.30 in the morning we had finished eating, we were done with the packing and we were on our way back to the mokoros to head back to land.

The most relaxing part of the trip

For about one hour and half we enjoyed the fresh morning while we were driven back to the trucks. We saw elephants, lots of cows, and quite a few hippos. But it was just peaceful. No stress, we were just slowly rocking through the Okavango Delta. Many people in the group felt asleep. Some, like me, just enjoyed the peace and the quiet. In most occasions we all chatted with our polers. Or between us. But that morning, we all had a unspoken agreement to be quiet and just enjoy our surroundings. It may have been the lack of internet or network connection, but we were all so relaxed… It may sound simple, but it was definitely one of the most soothing moments of the trip, and maybe of my life.

The goodbye zebra

Our poler was very nice to me and to A all trip. But when he realized we were not going to tip him individually he became a bit more aggressive. We had decided not to tip him individually because our guide, G, had asked us not to do it. We were told that because some polers do not take people, only equipment, it is not fair for them that they receive less of a tip. G gave us the advice to put all money together on an envelope and give it to one head polers.

Because of that, once we arrived to land, we all got together to say goodbye and the kiwi N gave a short speech to thank all polers to keep us alive. And safe. And very happy the previous three days. Then, N gave them the money we had collected and we were asked again to form a zebra. We all shacked hands to say goodbye and R took a group picture to remember the amazing previous days.

The polers settling around the Okavango

While we were waiting for the truck to come back to pick us up, one of the polers took us to their camp. Initially we thought that it was going to be their town, but it was a group of tents with a few solar panels here and there. A small grocery shop and quite a few stray dogs. They dropped us in front of the shop, under the sun, for about 45 minutes. The whole situation was very uncomfortable. It felt as if we were shown how they live as part of a tourist attraction and I really did not like it.

We chatted a little bit with the guy who took us there and he explained to us that that is not their town. They have their permanent base a few kilometers away but when the season get really dry the move closer to the Delta. Since that year they were going through the driest season in the last ten years, they had moved to that temporal town in May. Being September, they knew that they would be moving back in a couple of months, but they spent most of 2019 on the temporary settling.

Leaving the Okavango Delta, back to the truck and to Maun

By the time we made it back to the pick-up point, the truck was already waiting for us. We were in an open truck, with the wind from the desert. And we were covered in dust no more than 10 minutes after departing. Since we hadn’t had a shower in over three days, we did not really care about adding an extra layer of dirt to the mix. Thankfully, most of us had lost the sense of smell. Or get accustomed to it.

Surprise surprise back at the camp

After two hours of dusty road after leaving the Okavango Delta, we arrived back to the camping in Maun. Except for four people in the group, everybody else decided to upgrade to a private room. Which meant, first, no longer I had to share the tent with Sh, and second, I could have two mattresses. Even though I was comfortable sleeping on one, my hips were hurting from touching the ground with my hipbones when I was sleeping on my side. In no time, we mounted the tents (we were pros by then) and went to the showers.

Surprise!

There was no hot water. Well, to be realistic, there was no water at all. I think that a couple of people managed to have a shower but no one else found the water. We had to leave for the airport in half an hour, and I had given up on the idea of actually being clean again. And then, far away I saw the couple of Americans in our group. I run to them and asked them to please let me have a shower at their room (they upgraded). Nice as they were they let me jump in and I will be forever grateful for that.

It was then when I realized how extremely dirty I was. I touched the tap to put my sunglasses there. And left a black mark on it. From just touching it with my fingers. I had to cover myself in soap and rub, three times. And even after that I still did not feel completely clean.

We missed Ir for lunch

For lunch, we sat down by the pool and had a burger. A terrible burger if you ask me, tasteless and cold. Then, since I was starting to run out of clothes I went to the reception and asked for their laundry service. Unfortunately, I could only have the clothes back the next day at noon… so I ended up having to clean them all by hand in the small period of time we had between lunch and taking off to the airport.

Scenic flight through the Okavango Delta

Soon after lunch, E picked us up with the white elephant and dropped us at Maun’s airport. A very tiny airport where it was possible to buy scenic flights around the Okavango Delta. Except for one of the Swiss women and my ex-tent partner, the whole group took the flight. It was about 160€ and lasted for about an hour and a half. We were asked to show the airport and pay in either cash or card. Then we were split into three groups and off we took to the small plane.

I was on the plane with the two Aussies, the two Irish ladies and the two Scotts. I wanted to go on the seat next to the pilot, and so did R (the Scottish gal). So we played rock, paper, scissors. And I lost. So, I ended in the back but did not really mind it.

How was the scenic flight over the Okavango Delta? Was it worth it?

The flight above the Okavango Delta was nice. We saw a huge herd of water buffalos, dozens of elephants, some giraffes and more antelopes than I could count. It was beautiful to watch while it was also a bit sad. Everything was extremely dry. Our guides later on told me that if we would have been there during wet season the trees would have covered most animals and we would not have seen much. Which I am sure was true but, at the same time, was sad to see the earth cracking and the animals fighting to survive the drought.

Was it worth it? Kind of yes. If it would have been 100 euros, sure, but for that price, it felt a bit disappointing. Moreover, you may consider how easily you get sick in moving vehicles before buying this trip. We had three people in the plane vomiting half of the flight.

Finally found a headlight!

On our way back to the camping, we stopped in a supermarket so that people could buy more alcohol. Really, I was starting to feel like we were a bunch of alcoholics. Or maybe they were trying to turn us into alcoholics, because no one really was drinking all that much. Luckily, there was a small electronics shop and I finally found a head torch. You have never known how hard it is to eat with one hand until you have to hold a torch in the other one.

While I was waiting for the rest of the people to come back to the truck, I started talking to S. She wanted to go visit the attraction “walking with the lions”. I had done some research in my previous trip to Thailand and I knew how unethical these types of attractions were. And I told her. And so, her response was that she wanted to find out by herself. A couple of days later I learned that she indeed went there but at least I tried.

A weird way to finish the day

Even though dinner was not included, G told us that he would organize something for us to eat out. We arrived back to the camp after the flight and soon we were leaving again to this weird restaurant. Why weird, would you say? Well, we ended up on an Indian restaurant run by a German diplomat. We know he was a German diplomat because he showed up halfway through our dinner, completely drunk, explained us his life and started buying jagermeister shots for everyone. Weirdest night of the trip. Let me tell ya.

The food was also not very good (even though I love Indian food), and by nine we were all back on camp. This author was sleeping by nine thirty. Living the wild life, I know.

If you are enjoying these series, here you have the link to the full story. I hope I managed to take you up with me on this trip! If you liked it, share the love!